Pete Wells Takes Out Loan: Eats at Hakkasan

Abu Dhabi-based investment company, Times Square, and $48 Chilean sea bass are three in a list of many why Hakkasan probably won't make your restaurant radar any time soon.

In his review of Hakkasan, Pete Wells finds much to like in the dim sum on offer, but it seems to be the only saving grace in the 11,000 square foot room.

"The real problem is that its prices are too high for extremely restrained portions of food that is, in too many cases, about as interesting as a box of paper clips."

Pete sees a lot of potential in the cooks, who "have the focus of a cobra."  Someone just needs to "tell the cooks to make the food in their hearts instead of the lackluster recipes that somebody in the management company apparently believes non-Chinese people like."

Next time you're in Times Square and have $888 to spend on braised abalone with truffles, Hakkasan is your place.