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Friday
May242013

Donde Dinner? - 540 Ninth Avenue

Donde Dinner? wants to make your next dining experience an adventure. So, every Friday, we pick a restaurant and post its address for you. The catch is, that's all the information you get. No name, no type of cuisine, and no Googling. But first, here's last week's address:

67 South 6th Street = Bia67

This week's restaurant follows typical Donde Dinner? fashion. Price, quality, and accessibility have all been taken into account. You won't be waiting at the bar for two hours with $15 cocktails and you never have to worry about a dress code. Just hop on the train, or your feet, or your bike, and head to:

540 Ninth Avenue (map)

Thursday
May232013

Lucky Peach Issue 7 Is Almost Here

Lucky Peach subscribers the world over will start to find Issue 7 in their mailboxes in the coming days. The quarterly magazine isn't out in stores or Momofuku outposts yet, but the Travel issue is ready to read. And it's a big one. "What is inside?" asks the LP website, "So many words! Maybe our most words ever."

Those include, "Smart words about snake eating" from The New Yorker staff writer Philip Gourevitch, "Handwritten words about The Most Beautiful Taco Bell in the World from artist Jason Polan," travel tips from Mario Batali, and contriutions from LP vets Harold McGee and Tony Bourdain.

Del Posto's pastry chef Brooks Headley goes back to his punk roots (re: Born Against) for what McSweeney's website calls "Punk rock touring with Brooks Headley." Other highlights include "the history of curry," "an epic sub on the Jersey Shore," and "the world’s most dangerous chicken in Rio de Janeiro."

Happy reading!

Wednesday
May222013

The Only Stars for Beatrice Inn are Charlie Rose and Candice Bergen

[michael nagle for the times]Pete Wells files on six-month-old Beatrice Inn this week. Graydon Carter, the long-standing editor of Vanity Fair, opened the restaurant on West 12th Street in November. Carter's is also one of the minds behind Waverly Inn and Monkey Bar, restaurants Beatrice Inn borrows from in it's "stagy, raffishly exclusive neo-speakeasy" vibe (as Adam Platt refered to it in his review of Beatrice last month) and star-studded clientele (Charlie Rose and Candice Bergen were present during one of Wells' visits).

Despite its youth, the West Village eatery is on its third chef. Brian Nasworthy was there first, but he left at the end of January to work at Picholine. Calliope's Eric Korsch filled in for a few weeks, then Hillary Sterling signed on as executive chef. Sterling has Mesa Grill, Lupa, and A Voce on her resume, so the number of missteps Wells encounters are surprising.

On Sterling's menu, Wells finds goat cheese gnudi "that were bursting with the flavor of warm New York City tap water." And a strip steak that "had a chewy band of fat at its edge." There were "desperately undercooked sunchokes" and a "grainy, salty sauce of dried black olives." The critic much prefers Nasworthy's early efforts, which yielded "a horseradish-chile gastrique that had the lively hot-sweet-sour-salty tension of a Southeast Asian sauce," and mushrooms, salsify, and spinach "under a textbook hollandaise for a clever take on oysters Rockefeller." Wells awards no stars and gives Beatrice Inn the "satisfactory" stamp. [NYTimes]

Tuesday
May212013

Cochon Butcher's Muffaletta and the Warehouse District in New Orleans

The Warehouse District, or New Orleans Arts District, runs a dozen or so blocks north to south from Canal Street to the Pontchartrain Expressway and east to west from the Mississippi to Saint Charles Avenue. In the 19th Century, the industrial neighborhood served as the storage grounds for goods coming in off the Port of New Olreans. In 1976, the Contemporary Arts Center opened on Camp Street and gave rise to a shift in the neighborhood's dynamic. The Warehouse District was soon refered to as the "Soho of the South" and some of the city's revered chefs saw it as the perfect location for their forward-thinking, contemporary approach to cooking.

Click to read more ...

Monday
May202013

The Shots Heard 'Round the World

[courtesy of gawker] sietsemaThe news came sometime late last Friday morning. Robert Sietsema, who had been with the Village Voice for two decades, was fired from his post as food critic.

Three days later, Tejal Rao, the yin to Seitsema's yang at the Voice, and recipient of a James Beard Award for restaurant criticism this month, has resigned.

Nightlife columnist Michael Gusto and theatre critic Michael Feingold, a Pulitzer finalist for criticism in 2009, have also been ______ (fill in adverb of your choosing) let go, and staff writer Nick Pinto has recently given notice that he's out after his next feature.

Layoffs and resignations ensued after Christine Brennan, executive editor of Voice Media Group, told Voice editors Will Bourne and Jessica Lustig to fire 25% of their twenty-person staff. The company's press release reads in part, "This restructuring will allow the Voice to continue offering superior content and products to its New York audience." But Sietsema, Rao, Pinto, Gusto, and Feingold have left behind colossal pairs of shoes – the filling of which is nigh impossible.

Saturday
May182013

Eat the Week; May 13th - May 17th

Friday
May172013

Donde Dinner? - 67 South 6th Street

Donde Dinner? wants to make your next dining experience an adventure. So, every Friday, we pick a restaurant and post its address for you. The catch is, that's all the information you get. No name, no type of cuisine, and no Googling. But first, here's last week's address:

700 East 9th Street = The Wayland

This week's restaurant follows typical Donde Dinner? fashion. Price, quality, and accessibility have all been taken into account. You won't be waiting at the bar for two hours with $15 cocktails and you never have to worry about a dress code. Just hop on the train, or your feet, or your bike, and head to:

67 South 6th Street (map)

Friday
May172013

Today's Cajun Seafood in New Orleans

Today's Cajun Seafood landed on our radar after some unsavory locals sold the joint to us as the place to go for spicy crawfish and boiled turkey necks. So after a humbling trip to Caffin Avenue and the rest of the Lower Ninth, and after fried chicken livers and pepper jelly brunch at Elizabeth's in Bywater, we stopped by Today's for a pound of crawfish ($3.59) and a turkey neck ($1.80).

Today's Cajun is a lunch counter. It's a small space with four tables on one side where guests can sit and eat, but most folks get their food to go. A lot of the menu is prepared foods that are kept warm in steam trays. The meats continue to braise as they sit in their cooking liquid, so when an order is pulled the result is incredibly tender, flavorful protein. That was exactly the case with the turkey necks, which are cooked at Today's in the same boil that crawfish, sausages, pigs feet, corn, and just about everything else on the menu is. The combination of celery salt, paprika, black pepper, bay, chili, and cayenne that make up the boil yield a deeply satisfying, spicy, salty, and undeniably Cajun plate of food.

Delicate turkey meat willfully left the bone as we pulled at it voraciously with predatory fingers. By the time we realized we should get forks and eat like the civilized people we're not, what was left on the paper plate resembled a strange carcass toasting on hot sand in some far away desert. And as the last head from the pile of spicy, meaty crawfish was sucked and thrown onto the graveyard, we were left standing over our kill like proud vultures riding a liberating Creole wind.

Today's Cajun Seafood | 1700 Mcshane Place | 504-940-5995 | map