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Wednesday
May092012

One Star for Midtown's La Silhouette

In today's Times, Pete Wells awards La Silhouette one star in a review that reads like Bruni's recent article about having gout.  Chef Matthew Tropeano's menu has more than one foie gras dish on it.  There is a foie gras sauce, truffled forcemeat, sweetbreads, duck pate, and butter poached lobster.  It's a rich menu and you may be better off walking to 362 West 53rd Street to taste its offerings than taking the subway.

As for all the goose liver, Mr. Tropeano "ought to know his way around a lobe of foie gras.  He spent eight years in the kitchen at La Grenouille, mastering old-guard French dishes that fewer and fewer chefs in New York know how to pronounce."

La Silhouette "is on the extremely short list of good French restaurants in walking distance of the Broadway theaters," despite the fact that it operates in a "dark space that is about as inviting a spot for a restaurant as the Holland Tunnel."

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