Two Stars for Empellon Cocina

Pete Wells makes it over to Alex Stupak's Empellon Cocina and awards it two solid stars.  There were a few "stammers" in a salad with avacado and toasted grains, and a "kind of queso fundido made with lobster and tetilla cheese was buttery and rich, but also so watery that eating it became a three-napkin job."

Wells stresses that tapas may not be the proper format to present the food, but decides "Mr. Stupak’s cooking at Empellón Cocina resembles the food of Mexico the way a dream resembles life."